Rock Iguanas of the genus Cyclura are among the largest and most impressive lizards in the Western Hemisphere. Unfortunately, the genus also includes some of the fastest disappearing, and most Critically Endangered lizard species on Earth.

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Natural History

GRAND CAYMAN/CUBAN HYBRID ROCK IGUANASGRAND CAYMAN/CUBAN HYBRID ROCK IGUANASRock Iguanas of the genus Cyclura are among the largest and most impressive lizards in the Western Hemisphere. Unfortunately, the genus also includes some of the fastest disappearing, and most Critically Endangered lizard species on Earth. Historically these iguanas have always been restricted to islands in the Bahamas, the Greater Antillies and the Virgin Islands, although their former range was certainly much greater than it is today. on most of the islands where they still occur, they are the largest surviving native land vertebrates. In fact, adult iguanas have virtually no known natural predators. Their decline in numbers probably began in pre-Colombian times when the Arawak and Lucayan Indians sought them as food items to supplement their meager diet. This is evidenced by the bones of Cyclura that have been found in caves and Indian kitchen middens on several islands where they no longer occur including Saint Thomas, New Providence, Great Exuma and Puerto Rico. The pressures of hunting by these native peoples may have initiated the process of decline in the numbers of rock iguanas, but the real devastation began with the arrival of Europeans to the islands. Not only was extensive habitat lost as the human population increased, but with him, man brought his domesticated animals, many of them turning feral. Today the greatest threats to the rock iguanas are probably the direct predation by, or competition with these introduced animals. The list is extensive, with cattle, goats, pigs, rats, mongoose, dogs or cats present on most inhabited islands throughout the West Indies.

These large diurnal lizards inhabit subtropical areas of West Indian dry (xerophytic) thorn forests typical of many Caribbean islands. The substrate is usually heavily eroded limestone containing many caves and crevices that the iguanas utilize as retreats. Several species sometimes also dig their own burrows in sandy areas. Adults usually establish home ranges around these retreats that they actively defend against intruders. At least seasonally the home range of a dominant male will often overlap that of one or more females. Most wild Cyclura are generally polygamous but individuals may also be promiscuous or monogamous.

Rock iguanas are chiefly herbivorous, ingesting the leaves, flowers and fruits of as many as 58 different native plants on a single island. They also consume a very small amount of animal matter in the form of very easily attainable items such as insects, land crabs and carrion, which can include dead seabirds, fish and, rarely, other iguanas. Iguanas are good climbers, especially when young, and have been observed browsing in trees more than five meters above the ground.

Mating virtually always occurs during the same two or three week period each year, regardless of climatic conditions. This would indicate that breeding activity is triggered by seasonal changes in the day length, or photo period. Depending upon the species, mating occurs from late May until mid June, with oviposition (egg laying) occurring approximately forty days later. Females often travel outside of their normal activity ranges to areas that are suitable class="wordpress" for nesting. Several exploratory nests are sometimes begun before one is actually completed. Nest burrows range from 16" (.4 meters) to over 60" (1.5 meters) in length, with an enlarged chamber at its terminal portion which allows the female to turn around. Smaller species of rock iguanas, and very young females of many species, may lay between two to six eggs, while some of the largest forms may lay as many as twenty-three. Egg size may be dependent upon the size and age of the nesting female. on average, Cyclura eggs are among the largest eggs laid by any lizard on earth. After laying eggs, females of some species will often guard their own nest site for up to several weeks, repelling any intruder that ventures too close. The temperature at depth within nests that have been monitored by researchers remained a surprisingly constant 30-33C throughout much of the incubation period which can range from 65-90 days. It often requires the combined effort of many hatchlings to dig out of a nest chamber, sometimes not emerging for as long as two weeks after actual hatching. Neonates disperse quickly and lead solitary lives. Unfortunately, mortality rates for juveniles can be extremely high and on at least some islands they approach one hundred percent. In the wild, rock iguanas reach sexual maturity at two to nine years of age. It is believed that they are also among the longest lived of any lizard, reaching ages of at least twenty-five to forty years. Some researchers believe that they may actually live to be closerto eighty years of age!

The most recent taxonomic revision to date of the lizard genus Cyclura was conducted by A. Schwartz and M. Carey in 1977. They examined 378 preserved specimens and named seventeen forms representing eight species. According to the I.U.C.N. Red List of these recognized forms, at least one is thought to be extinct, eight are Critically Endangered, five Endangered and the remaining three Vulnerable. I have spent the last twenty years observing many populations in the wild and searching the available scientific literature to attempt to determine the status of all extant Cyclura. I would like to review and update each at this time.

Status and Distribution

Cyclura carinata carinata — Turks and Caicos Rock Iguanas

Cyclura carinata bartschi — Bartschi's Iguana

Cyclura collei — Jamaican Iguana

Cyclura cornuta cornuta — Rhinoceros Iguana

Cyclura cornuta onchiopsis — Navassa Island Iguana

Cyclura cornuta stejnegeri — Mona Island Rhinoceros Iguana

Cyclura cychlura cychlura — Andros Island Iguana

Cyclura cornuta figginisi — Exuma Island Iguana

Cyclura cornuta inornata — Allens Cay Iguana

Cyclura nubila nubila — Cuban Rock Iguana

Cyclura nubila caymenesis — Lesser Caymans Iguanas

Cyclura nubila lewisi — Grand Cayman Iguana

Cyclura pinguis — Anegada Islands Iguana

Cyclura ricordi — Ricords Rock Iguana

Cyclura rileyi rileyi — San Salvador Iguana

Cyclura rileyi cristata — White Cay Iguana

Cyclura rileyi nuchalis — Acklins Iguana

Longevity in Captivity

Historically Cyclura iguanas have done very poorly in captivity at zoological institutions. The average longevity in zoos worldwide before 1987 was less than 2.5 years although I personally believe that figure has improved significantly in recent years. Apparently the private sector has done somewhat better. We currently maintain many animals that are 15 to 25 year captives. There are reliable records of animals that have been captive for more than 30 years. Most of these older animals show little evidence of their advanced ages and, in fact, still appear to be active reproductively.

Diet and Feeding

We believe our success in breeding these iguanas at Cyclura Research Center (C.R.C.) is due to several factors. The first of these factors is providing a high quality, balanced diet heavy in green leafy vegetable class="wordpress"s that have a positive calcium to phosphorous ratio. We feed a mix from the following list on a daily basis to hatchlings and 2-3 times per week to adults.

• Green Leafy Vegetable class="wordpress"s: Kale, Collard greens, Mustard greens, Parsley, Chard, Turnip greens, Escarole and Dandelion Greens.
• Legumes: Bean sprouts (alfalfa, mung, soybean, etc.), Beans (lima, kidney, string, etc.)
• Mixed Vegetable class="wordpress"s: Squash, grated (banana, summer, zucchini, etc.), Corn, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Asparagus, Brussels Sprouts and Yams.
• Fruits and flowers: Melons, Apples, Plums, Pears, Bananas (sparingly), Figs (very high in calcium!) and Grapes.
• Optional Items (less than 5% of diet for juveniles and gravid females, 2% for other adults): Dry, low fat, low protein, premium senior or less active dog food soaked in water first to soften (Science Diet, Iams, Pro-Plan, Nutro, etc.) Primate diet, monkey chow biscuits.
• Supplements: Multi-vitamin (Reptivite, Herptivite, etc.) Calcium and mineral supplement (Rep-Cal, Miner-all, Neo-Calglucon, etc.)
• Water: Fresh water for drinking is available at all times or offered at least every other day

A mix is prepared from the above list consisting of about 70% leafy greens, 15% mixed vegetable class="wordpress"s, 10% fruit and flowers, and less than 5% animal protein based products. Chop or grate finely for juveniles (a food processor works well) or more coarsely for adults. It is not necessary to feed a huge variety of items at every feeding. Simply vary the items offered from week to week so that a great variety of foods are fed overall.

Housing

All of our adult iguanas are kept in outdoor enclosures constructed of a 2" x 4" wood framework covered by 14 gauge galvanized after welded wire; 1/2" x 1" mesh wire is used on cages housing juveniles, while 1" x 2" mesh is adequate to confine adults. Two basic designs have been used. Originally we built wire mesh cages around a central building built upon a concrete slab and heated by a thermostatically controlled space heater. Individual inside cages within the structure are lined with Formica and have large access doors to facilitate easy cleaning. Openings are cut through the building's walls to allow access to the exterior wire sunning cages. There are locking doors on these opening so that animals can be restricted to either the indoor cage or the outdoor enclosure while cleaning or maintenance is being conducted or when outside temperatures are too low.

The outdoor portion of the enclosure is begun by digging a 6" wide, 18" deep trench into which concrete is poured to form a footing. A wood frame is constructed and is attached to the footing either with lag-bolts or with spikes shot by 22 caliber shell powered stud gun. A 60" (1.5 meter) square section in one corner of the outdoor enclosure is dug out and the soil removed to depth of about 16" (.4 meters). This hole is filled with sand and provides a nesting area for the iguanas. The remainder of the enclosure is planted with grass and landscaped with piles of rocks and small palms trees. While this is our preferred enclosure, it has several disadvantages. The building and concrete footing and slab are expensive and time-consuming to construct. Also, in many areas of the U.S. such structures requires building permits and must be inspected periodically during construction.

A second design is now used on all new enclosures built. It is begun by first assembling a square base out of 2"x 8" clear redwood lumber. PVC coated hex mesh wire is stapled across the frame and individual strips are overlapped and secured to one another with hog ring clips. This coated wire mesh prohibits any iguanas from burrowing out of the enclosure. The entire base is then flipped over, set into place on a level area, and then filled with sand or decomposed granite. A 2"x 4" wood frame is constructed and secured onto this base and covered with galvanized welded wire. Finally a 24" wide strip of 5/8" thick exterior siding is added along the sides of the enclosure to prevent nervous animals from charging into the wire or rubbing their noses on it. Cages are normally at least 6 feet tall so they may be serviced comfortably by an average height adult.

Within each cage a 36" (1 meter) long by 20" (.5 meter) wide by 12" (.3 meter) high wooden box is placed on concrete blocks. This box is constructed with 2" thick sides and ¾" thick plywood top and bottom which has been coated several times with a non-toxic sealer. The top is hinged so that the interior is easily accessible and a lockable door is cut in the front to allow animals entry. There are also a variety of commercially made wooden or plastic dog houses that can also be used. 110 volts AC is then run in plastic conduit to a grounded outlet box in each container. A rigid heating pad ("pig blanket") designed specifically for use with animals is used as a heat source in each box. These are available from several manufacturers (Kane, Lectro-Kennel, Osborne, etc.) in a variety of sizes. Most draw under 100 watts and can be used with a rheostat or thermostat and 24 hour timer to control the heat output and duration.

Heat pads should fit the container so that there is approximately 6" (15 cm) of space between its edges and the sides of the box. This allows the animals to lie off of the pad if the temperature becomes too warm, but does not allow them to get so far away from the pad that they become chilled when temperatures are quite low. This heating method has proved successful for more than 15 years in inland Southern California where outside winter temperatures sometimes drop to as low as 23F (-5C). All heaters are wired to a time clock so they may be run for only a few hours at night, or used continuously during inclement weather. Supplemental heat is not used at all during six months of the year. It is first turned on in the fall when nighttime temperatures begin to drop below 55F (12.5C). Animals are then checked each evening to be sure that they are inside the heated boxes.

When temperatures drop to lower than 50F (10C) the doors to all the boxes are closed every evening and opened up again every morning. This not only helps to retain heat within the unit, but also prohibits any animal from leaving the box when outside temperatures are dangerously low. At the other extreme mid-summer temperatures can sometimes reach 110F (44C). To help moderate such heat, 70% shade cloth is installed over 2/3 of each enclosure. A drip irrigation line runs down the center of each roof with spray nozzles every few meters. These misters are controlled by an automatic watering timer which can either be programmed to come on as often as needed or operated manually. Fresh water faucets are present in each cage for washing and refilling water receptacles. Previous authors have listed lack of sufficient space as the primary reason that rock iguanas fail to thrive and reproduce in captivity.

While I would certainly agree that enclosures provided should be as large as possible, access to natural sunlight and adequate diet is at least as important. We have had young adult C. nublia produce viable eggs in cages with as little as 3.25 square meters of floor space. A more appropriate size, however, for a large adult pair would be at least 9 square meters of floor area supplied with several basking sites.

Visual barriers can be helpful in reducing stress during breeding and nesting seasons. We have tried several different arrangements for establishing breeding groups including pairs, trios and quads. Dominant adult males can rarely be kept together except in extremely large enclosures (200 sq. meters) that are usually impractical for the average breeder to construct. Females are often quite aggressive toward one another and nearly always establish a pecking order. Submissive females often do not do well and usually remain smaller and exhibit a slower growth rate then their dominant counterparts.

Relationships sometimes change very quickly in an apparently compatible trio or quad. Even after many peaceful months together, a subordinate female may suddenly be found with missing digits or more serious lacerations. This often occurs immediately after another female cage mate has oviposited (laid eggs). The most compatible group has proven, not surprisingly, to be one male and one female. We arrange cages in such a way that males can see one another and display back and forth. There is some evidence that these displays may help to stimulate breeding activity.

Reproduction

Copulation can occur at various times throughout the year in captivity, particularly when iguanas are introduced to each other for the first time. Normally though, breeding takes place for just a few weeks each year during May and June. I have observed successful copulation on many occasions. It is usually preceded by numerous head bobs by the male, who then circles around behind the female grasping the nape of her neck in typical iguanid fashion. He then attempts to restrain her and to maneuver his tail under hers to position himself for intromission. Copulation generally lasts from 30 to 90 seconds (rarely longer) and a pair is rarely observed mating more than once or twice per day. Our captive C. nubila are always the first species to oviposit beginning as early as the first week of June. C. cornuta are usually somewhat later, nesting in August.

Any eggs laid after October 1st have always been infertile. Gravid females normally begin the nesting process with a reduction in the intake of food and an increase in activity level about two weeks before laying. Abdomens of large, mature adult females often become distended to the point where the outline of individual eggs can easily be seen. Several days before actual egg laying, females begin to dig all over the cage, excavating many shallow depressions. In the cages with only 8" deep sand substrate a triangular piece of plywood is laid in one corner. The enables even the largest females to excavate adequate nests under the plywood in soil that would otherwise be too shallow. It usually takes an entire afternoon to excavate a complete nest burrow. Females often remain in burrows overnight rather than returning to their regular retreats. Occasionally females will remain underground up to two days while laying eggs, but more often emerge the following morning and begin to fill the nest burrow with sand. Huge quantities of sand are moved from around the nest site until a large mound is formed over the spot where the eggs were laid. We always remove the eggs immediately after being laid and artificially incubate them indoors, but many females will continue to guard their now empty nest site for weeks afterwards. If the mount of sand is raked flat after egg removal, a female will often immediately move large quantities of sand to attempt to re-cover the area. This behavior normally lasts for one or two weeks but can be induced in some individuals for months afterward by simply turning on the sprinkler system or by a moderate rain.

Incubation of Eggs

After removal, eggs are placed into plastic sweater or shoeboxes containing a 2" (5 cm) deep layer of vermiculite or pearlite. This dry substrate should first be moistened by mixing one and one-quarter parts purified water with one part (1.25:1) incubation medium (measured by weight, NOT by volume). Eggs are then placed into the substrate with one half buried and the other half exposed to the air space inside the container. Care is taken not to turn the eggs over and to keep them in the same position as they were laid. The loose fitting covers are set onto each container and they are placed into an incubator set at 86F (30C). Containers are opened for a period of 30 seconds every three days to allow for some air exchange. A pan of water in the bottom of the incubator helps to maintain a fairly high relative humidity. Fertile eggs are usually full, turgid, and white in color. They are sometimes distinguishable from infertile eggs, which are often, but not always, soft, flabby and somewhat yellow in color. Eggs that are retained too long by a female before being laid may also be hard and misshapen. All eggs laid are incubated but ones appearing infertile are kept separate from "good" eggs and usually collapse and mold very quickly and are subsequently discarded.

Hatching and Care of Hatchlings

During incubation, fertile eggs increase substantially in size as they absorb moisture from the substrate. At 30C, eggs begin to hatch in as soon as 80 days, often dimpling in slightly several days before the first slit appear. After successfully slitting the eggshell with their tiny egg tooth, hatchlings will often sit with only their heads protruding for up to two days. During this time it is important not to disturb the hatchlings. If frightened, they may exit the egg before all of the remaining yoke material can be absorbed into their abdominal cavity. Once free of the eggs, they are left in the container for two or three days to allow the "umbilical" opening time to close. The movement of the first ones out crawling over the other eggs probably stimulates them all to hatch in unison. This is necessary in the wild to assure that they can burrow to the surface from the underground nest chamber, a process that requires a group effort. Once hatching is observed, covers of the containers are set ajar to allow for more air circulation. They must, however, be taped securely in place as the active youngsters can easily knock them off and scatter about the incubator. At these incubation temperatures, all healthy hatchlings are usually out by 90 days. For this time period, it is not necessary to add additional moisture to the substrate but if incubation exceeds this time or if eggs appear dehydrated, more purified water can be added if necessary. Water should be added to the substrate between the eggs but never poured or sprayed directly onto the eggs themselves. Even a few degrees reduction in temperature will result in prolonged incubation times of as much as 120 to 140 days with a larger percentage of eggs failing to hatch. Some eggs containing normal appearing fully developed embryos fail to hatch at all even under natural conditions. It is also common to have one or more infertile eggs in an otherwise fertile clutch. We’ve had no cases of "twinning" in our Cyclura eggs but are aware of two other documented incidences at other institutions of twins hatching from the same egg. I normally wait until all of the hatchlings in each plastic box have been out of their eggs for two three days before removing them from the incubator. Four or five juveniles are placed into a 30 gallon or larger terrarium with a bottom substrate of clean paper. An under-tank heat pad is placed under one end of the terrarium. Two light hoods are used; one holds a 60 watt red or blue bulb or ceramic heat emitter used to heat the container. The other is a strip hood containing a UVB producing full spectrum fluorescent tube. Both lights can be controlled with 24 hour timers and thermostats. The fluorescent light is turned on and off automatically for alternating 12 hour periods. By this method, nighttime temperatures are maintained at 70-80F (21-27C), rising to 90-95F (32-35C) during the day. A hide box (optional) can be placed in one end of the terrarium and a shallow container of purified water is added for drinking.

Baby Iguanas shed almost immediately in tiny flakes as their skin dries out for the first time. At hatching, their bellied are distended with yolk and they often do not begin to feed for 7-10 days. Also at about 7-10 days old they shed completely once again, this time in large patches. We have seen no differences in growth rates or survivorship between hatchlings fed feces from adult Iguanas and ones that are not. Sufficient microflora for proper digestion is probably obtained from the crickets and mealworms that are sometimes, but not always fed to hatchlings in the first few weeks. In fact, in the 1999 hatching season no insects were fed at all and all of the hatchlings are developing normally. Interestingly, C. nubila seem to really relish crickets and mealworms, while C. cornuta youngsters consumed them rather sparingly. Hatchlings are kept indoors through the first winter and are moved into indoor/outdoor cages when the weather begins to warm in spring. Growth is rapid and we have seen iguanas attain over 20 inches in overall length within the first year.

Sexing

The most reliable method for sexing Cyclura is by probing. We do not recommend probing iguanas younger than two to three months of age, for the membranes within the cloaca are very delicate. Probes may puncture through the membranes and slip under the skin of the tail even with slight pressure. At three months of age, females probe about 5 mm in depth, while males are close to 12 mm deep. A relatively small probe (1-2 mm) is generally used on hatchlings. By two to four years of age, the secondary sexual characteristics are becoming evident and the presence of the male reproductive organ, the hemipenes can usually be detected visually at the ventral base of the tail. Adult C. cornuta females will probe near 15 mm in depth while adult males will probe 50 mm or more in depth. Sexually mature males (of most species) will also have enlarged and exuding femoral pores arranged in one or two rows along the underside of the rear legs.

Sexual Maturity

Growth rates are often accelerated in captivity as compared to that of wild iguanas. This is certainly due to the richer diet they receive on a continuous basis. Consequently, sexual maturity is sometimes reached at a younger age than in their wild counterparts. Captive bred and raised female C. nubila have laid fertile eggs at as young as 21 months of age although it is more common in their third year. C. cornuta have also reproduced successfully in their third or, more commonly, fourth year.

Medical Issues

We have seen very few medical problems with our animals. Cyclura iguanas kept in outdoor enclosures sometimes become infested with mites and these are kept in check with the use of a .03 percent pyrethrin, or on of the synthetic pyrethrin sprays (as used for birds). The spray is allowed to sit on the iguana for one or two minutes and then is thoroughly rinsed off. The prescription drug Ivermictin is also used as both an injection and a topical spray for the control of ectoparacites on reptiles. Care should be taken to avoid spraying into the eyes, nostrils or mouth. A second treatment is applied two weeks following the first. Containers housing iguanas may be treated with the same spray allowing it to remain on surfaces for ten minutes before rinsing.

Wild Cyclura harbor huge swarms of oxyurids (worms) in their caecum. Because these endoparacites are sometimes associated with health problems in captive animals we now conduct routine worming once or twice per year with Panacur 10% paste or granules (Fenbendazole). Although otherwise healthy animals are not usually negatively affected by normal parasite loads heavy infestations can greatly debilitate an animal that is ill or under stress.

Several injuries have been severe enough to require suturing in our iguanas. These sometimes occur to both males and females during the somewhat violent mating process. Minor cuts and scrapes usually heal on their own, although we often apply an antibiotic spray or topical ointment to the afflicted area to help reduce the chance of infection. We have suffered the loss of very few adult Cyclura at C.R.C. over the last 20 years. One of those rare losses was an adult female that had outwardly appeared perfectly healthy up until the day that she died. A necropsy revealed that this gravid female had become egg-bound from several ruptured eggs. Yolk material coated many internal organs. Salmonella and Arizona organisms are sometimes seen in fecal analysis of both captive and wild Cyclura. These are considered to be part of the normal intestinal microflora but may become pathogenic when animals are under great stress. As these organisms can be transferred to humans and other animals and sometimes cause serious health problems and rarely even death, sound hygiene practices should always be observed.

In Conclusion

We are very pleased with the advances made in captive propagation at Cyclura Research Center and other facilities around the world. Captive-produced animals provide a source for zoos, research, and the private sector without exerting any pressure on wild populations. Although still controversial, more and more of these animals may be recycled back into the wild to restock depleted areas. This has been done for years in the Dominican Republic with C. cornuta and programs begun in both Jamaica the Cayman Islands will attempt to do the same with C. colei and C. n. lewisi in the near future. Ultimately, the continued survival of Cyclura iguanas will depend upon how aggressive we are in preserving their natural habitat and attempting to reverse much of the damage that has already been done to it. Until, and unless, these goals are accomplished, captive breeding programs will remain their most important hedge against extinction.

Revised March, 2000

David W. Blair

Care in brief of Hatchling Cyclura Iguanas

• Cage: Minimum of 400 sq. inches of floor space for each iguana with basking sites.
• Temperature: 70-75F night, 85-95F daytime. 100-105F basking site.
• Lighting: Natural sunlight is best or full-spectrum UVB producing fluorescent tube or mercury vapor lamp.
• Photo period adjusts seasonally from 11.5 hrs. of daylight on Dec. 23 to 13.25 hrs. on June 22nd.
• Water: Small, shallow container of fresh water available daily.
• Food: Daily or every other day feedings recommended until 1 yr. of age, thereafter at least three times per week. Insure that all food is consumed and do not overfeed
• We feed the following mix:
  
  3-4 green leafy vegetable class="wordpress"s (parsley, chard, collard, turnip, mustard, etc).
  
  1. fruits, chopped (apples, pears, melon, peaches, grapes, etc.)
  
  2. vegetable class="wordpress"s, grated or processed (squash, carrot, legumes, etc.). Very small amounts (< 5% of diet) dry, low-fat dog food soaked in water to soften (optional).
• Dust food mix twice weekly with quality calcium/mineral powder, once each week with vitamin powder.
• Live insects are not required, but occasional crickets and mealworms can be offered, but never to exceed more than 5% of the total diet.

Bibliography

Auffenberg, W. 1976 Rock iguanas, Part II. Bahamas Naturalist 2:9-16

Blair, D.W. 1983 Dragons of Cayman. Rock iguanas cling to their islands. Oceans 16 (2):31-33

Blair, D.W. 1991a. West Indian rock iguanas: their status in the wild and efforts to breed them in captivity. Pages 55-66 in Northern California Herpetological Society Special Publication No. 6, R.E. Staub, ed. Northern California Herpetological Society.

Blair, D.W. 1991b. Update on the status of the San Salvador rock iguana, Cyclura rileyi rileyi. Iguana Times 1(2):1-3.

Blair, D.W. 1992a. A cay by any other name. Iguana Times 1(5):2-7.

Blair, D.W. 1992b. Booby or bust! Iguana Times 1(6):4-9.

Blair, D.W. 1994. Status of currently recognized taxa of the iguanid genus Cyclura. Reptiles 1(4):60-61.

Carey, W.M. 1975. The rock iguana, Cyclura pinguis, on Anegada, British Virgin Islands, with notes on Cyclura ricordi and Cyclura cornuta on Hispaniola. Bulletin of the Florida State Museum of Biological Sciences 19 (4):180-234

Duval, J.J. 1982. Recommendations for the captive management of West Indian rock iguanas, (Cyclura). In Proceedings 6th reptile symposium on captive propagation and husbandry. :181-196

IUCN/SSC West Indian Iguana Specialist Group, 2000. West Indian Iguanas Status Survey and Conservation Action Plan, A. Alberts, ed.

Iverson, J.B. 1979. Behavior and ecology of the rock iguana Cyclura carinata. Bulletin of the Florida State Museum of Biological Sciences 24:175-358

Noble, G.K. 1923. Trailing the Rhinoceros Iguana. Journal of the American Museum of Natural History in New York 23:541-558

Perera, A. 1985a. Datos sobre la dieta de Cyclura nubila (Sauria : Iguanidea) en los alrededores de cayo Larga del sur, Cuba. Poeyana 291:1-12

Schwartz, A. and W.M. Carey 1977. Systematics and evolution in the West Indian iguana genus Cyclura. Fauna of Curacao and the Caribbean Islands.173:16-97

Schwartz A. & R. Thomas 197?. A checklist of West Indian amphibians and reptiles. Special Publication Carnegie Museum of Natural History 1:1-216

Wiewandt, T.A. 1977. Ecology, behavior, and management of the Mona Island ground iguana Cyclura stejnegeri. Ph.D. Dissertation, Cornell University, Ithaca, NY.

Wiewandt, F.A. 1982. Known and extinct forms of Cyclura iguanas. Pages 392-394 in Iguanas of the World, G.M. Burghardt and A.S. Rand, eds. Noyes Publication, Park Ridge, New Jersey.

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PAYMENT: Pre-payments are recommended, as clutches sometimes sell out completely before the animals have even hatched out. Pre-paying will also guarantee the previous year’s price. Animals paid for by cashier’s check or money order may ship immediately. Animals paid by personal or business check will be held for a minimum of ten business days before shipping to insure that the check is not returned unpaid by your bank for any reason. Sorry, we do not accept credit card payments, COD’s, PayPal or wire transfers. Payments must be made payable only to David Blair.

SHIPPING: Most animals can be shipped safely when temperatures are between 45 and 90 degrees F. We use foam lined shipping boxes and internal heat or cold packs, when required. All shipping costs are to be prepaid by the customer and shipping charges will be quoted to your specific zip code. As the USPS has become very problematic, most hatchlings are now being shipped via UPS Next Day Air at a cost of from $50.00 to $85.00, depending upon your specific zip code and distance from CA .

GUARANTEE: We guarantee all animals to arrive alive and in outwardly appearing good condition when shipped within the above guidelines. We are, however, not responsible for delays or misdirection by the carrier and will insure all shipments at full value or to the limits allowed by each carrier, which may vary. There is a three-day return privilege, for exchange only, on any mail order purchase. All shipping charges are the customer’s responsibility. All sales of animals selected or picked up by the customer in person are considered final. No warranties are made as to the specific genetic make-up, eventual adult size, color or tameness of any individual animal. Most species will become tame with regular handling if purchased as hatchlings and properly socialized.

FREE CARE INFORMATION: We will be happy to answer any husbandry questions that you may have for as long as you own any animal purchased from us! All that we ask is that you first email us at critter@herpnut.com with your specific questions. If necessary, we will arrange a phone consultation with you to more fully answer some questions. Complete care information is available under our articles section or under the heading "Cyclura articles" at www.cyclura.com. Please read through it completely before contacting us.

VISITATION: For reasons of security we have not allowed visitors to our breeding facility for many years. Although not encouraged, private showings of our animals can be arranged at another location in Escondido, CA. which is about 30 miles north of San Diego, CA just off of the I-15 Freeway. There is a $50.00 fee for a private showing, which must be paid for in advance by mail. That fee is waived and will be applied toward any animal purchased at that private showing only.

David Blair has been involved in the captive propagation and husbandry of iguanas for over thirty-five years. In 1980 he founded a breeding facility for the study and captive propagation of rare West Indian iguanas of the genus Cyclura and other reptiles. Currently, he is considered one of the most successful breeders in the world for Endangered and Threatened species of iguanas. He has participated in numerous cooperative captive-breeding programs with several different recognized zoological institutions.

In addition to developing his very successful captive-breeding program, from 1978 to 1992 David organized and led numerous field photographic surveys to ascertain and document the current status of several iguana taxa throughout the Caribbean region. The results of those surveys were published in a variety of scientific and popular publications and were considered instrumental in helping to foster the current interest in iguana conservation on a worldwide basis. Mr. Blair is also an invited member of the IUCN/SSC Iguana Specialist Group and has contributed to the written Status Survey and Conservation Action Plan for West Indian Iguanas (Allison Alberts, Editor). He was also an active participant and program presenter at species workshops and programs in Jamaica, Florida, and California, working with other ISG members to compile and disseminate information on Threatened and Endangered iguanas.

David is an experienced professional writer and photographer. His feature articles and original photographs have appeared in many international magazines and books including “THE GREEN IGUANA MANUAL”, "OCEANS", "THE VIVARIUM", "REPTILES" and "REPTILES USA", as well as in dozens of national and regional society newsletters. A nationally recognized public speaker, David has been the invited keynote speaker at dozens of industry trade shows, animal expositions, society meetings and animal husbandry workshops in several states and internationally. He has even been qualified at the federal level as an expert in iguana husbandry. In addition, Mr. Blair was the CEO of Critter Corner, Inc., an international distributor of exotic animal supplies, for over twenty-four years, from 1982 until 2006.

Throughout his long and varied career David Blair has developed a worldwide reputation as an expert in animal husbandry and care products. Few others in the animal industry have obtained an equal reputation for honesty, reliability and knowledge.